Island Outreach Boat Trip with seven different destinations in 10 days, let the journey begin.
Our trip started with a lovely tour of the CNRO (Centre National de Recherches Oceangraphiques) in Nosy Be where we broadened our knowledge on some of the history and wildlife Madagsacar has to offer.
It was the start of a 10-day journey with 12 new faces from all corners of the globe. Places like Mexico, Croatia, New Zealand, South Africa and Columbia just to name a few. It’s always a gamble when it comes to who you will land up with, but it was as if we were all meant to be on this trip together. There was just such a positive energy from the get go and everyone just seemed to get along like peanut butter and jam. For many onboard it was their first time to Africa and their first time on a boat so we could say it was the start of many firsts.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 1:
The boat was captained by Abdu and Menjah served as our guide throughout the duration of our journey. With Abdu’s many years of experience we felt as if we were in safe hands upon boarding The Spirit of Malala. We waved our goodbyes to Hell-Ville and Nosy Komba and started our two-and-a-half-hour journey to the sacred island of Nosy Mamoko, where we would be spending two nights. The boat turned out to be very comfortable and as we set off the in-house chef, Ilos, was filling the air with the most amazing aromas which seemed to be brewing from the tiny 2×2 kitchen. The first leg of the journey everyone got to know each other until we reached Mamoko. The sun was dipping casting some beautiful light over the island of Mamoko, yet leaving us with enough light to squeeze in a good snorkel. The skies were displaying an array of oranges and pinks as we were busy pitching our tents on Nosy Mamoko for our first overnight.
At first many of us weren’t too sure of what ‘sacred’ entailed but we soon found out through Menjah that it meant no making use of the land for any toilet needs and no form of shoes allowed on the island. So as much as this trip has offered many firsts, it also made for a truly unique first time experience of going for a number two in the ocean. It undoubtedly led to a few awkward moments when you spotted someone from the group heading into the waters at 12 at night or early hours of the morning.
It is always quite an adaptation to adjust to a new cuisine and routine and in Madagascar snacking isn’t as much of a thing as in many other places so meals are usually around 6am, 12pm and 6pm. So, it goes without saying that by 6pm everyone was ravenous, but to our delight Ilos had the braai going with the Couta (King Mackerel) that we were lucky to catch fresh on our way to Mamoko. He prepared the Couta with a local Malagasy sauce made of tomato, garlic, onion, lemon and accompanied with some rice (riz blanc). As they say hunger is the best spice, however in this case the flavours were truly just phenomenal. Having our bellies filled we ended our day chatting on the beach stargazing next to our bonfire.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 2:
At around seven in the morning we would either do a turtle survey or a bird survey. The group would split into two. One group venturing into the forest in search of bird species, recording their findings as they go. The other group would look over the turquoise waters with keen eyes and search for any breaching turtle. We had it on our agenda to visit two cascades for the day one before and one after lunch, so we wasted no time and started our journey to cascade number one. It was fascinating how the landscape changed from the lush, forestry vegetation to more sparse grasslands with a more arid biome.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 3:
Things started slightly earlier as we had to pack up camp and move on to our next destination. However we had a nice little surprise in store beforehand. After our turtle and bird watch, Menjah guided us into the village where we met with the queen of the village. Meeting her was such a humbling experience as it felt as if she greeted each of us individually and afterwards started calling “maki, maki, maki” which is the call for the lemurs. It was in no time that the trees started shaking from all corners. To our amazement nearly 30 lemurs popped out of the trees and approached us.
They were surprisingly tame and some even hopped onto our shoulders to get hold of the bananas that we had on offer. It was really interesting to see how when it comes to feeding time the females are the dominant ones and don’t allow the males to eat. Just when we thought the lemurs were a highlight of our morning we got to see a 100-year-old tortoise. We got the engines rolling again and ventured on to Ampoagna after our amazing experience on Mamoko.
In Ampoagna we went for a walk through the village which is located on a serene white sand beach. Simply walking through the village was a very peaceful experience. Our aim was to go and have a look at the progress that the construction team has made with their efforts on building a clinic for the area as there is no medical center or clinic in any of the surrounding areas. As we were about to leave the locals wanted to challenge us to a football match which we happily took up. Sadly, we didn’t do too well.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 4:
Probably the most serene day on the trip so far. The waters were extremely calm with not a drop of wind. We wasted no time in getting this beautiful day on a roll. First up was a snorkel at Ankazabravana, a marine protected area. It was truly amazing visibility and the aquatic life was absolutely abundant. With a few sightings of emperor angelfish, Moorish idols, parrotfish, batfish and a variety of surgeonfish we definitely got our fix. Our snorkel unfortunately came to an abrupt stop when we swam into a colony of jellyfish. Next up we had a hike planned trekking across areas of Russian Bay where Mary unfortunately fell and injured herself a little. Everyone was rather sad that we had to divert our path to the coast for the rest of the journey, but it led us to a turtle breeding ground where we stumbled upon a batch of turtles hatching and making a run for the ocean. Everyone quickly changed their feelings towards Mary and having to divert paths as it led us onto what most people considered the highlight of their trip.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 5:
After having spent another night in Russian Bay we ventured out in the morning to a place called Sugar Loaf. It looks like an enormous rock simply plonked in the middle of the ocean. It led to some pretty fantastic snorkeling as the rock formation forms a wall underwater that is thriving with coral and marine life.
Antsoha
On this little island we got to see 3 varying species of lemur including the Safika. Which for many was a dream to see. The island also has a private room, aka the love room which everyone seems to be keeping open as a potential for their honeymoons one day as it is truly picture perfect. Nestled amongst the trees on the peak of the island you are surrounded with 360 degrees of turquoise beauty. After a delicious meal by Ilos we were led on a hike in a different region of Russian Bay by a local guide, Maul. It was a long 12km hike, but knowing that one gets a meal prepared by Ilos made it that much easier.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 6:
We started early as it was onto Baharamamay for the next few days. It wasn’t all that bad as when we got back onboard Ilos had French toast ready to go.
Nosy Iranja
Arguably one of the top five most beautiful places myself and the rest of the group have seen. It feels as if you would be stepping into a postcard. It redefined unreal. We did a quick hike up to the lighthouse designed by Gustave Eiffel the same person who designed the Eiffel tower. En route to Nosy Iranja, Ilos reeled in yet another fresh fish. He performed his magic behind the scenes and we were served the most succulent roasted fresh fish with saffron coconut rice and a shredded carrot and cucumber salad. Absolutely delectable, well to the point where everyone enjoyed one or three scoops too many. But since we had the opportunity to snorkel with green turtles after lunch everyone decided to put their food comas aside and rather hop in the water to snorkel with the green turtles, which is not something you just get to do everyday.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 7:
Today we hiked through the landscapes of Baharamamay where we also walked through a swamp to get a feel for what the loacals need to go through on a daily basis. Walking through the swamp, it almost felt as if it was trying to swallow us in as each step you take it just sucks your foot in and you need to give a serious tug to move onto the next step. It really gave us a greater appreciation and understanding of the day to day life of the local Malagasy people.
After our lesson, we got to play a match of football with the locals and in this sense, it really defined what it meant to have a home ground advantage. The pitch had two wooden poles set up on either side as goal posts and whilst playing you need to dodge an array of roots, rocks and trees nestled in and around the pitch.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 8:
Abdu organized a special experience for us today as he got two piroques which we used to row further into the bay. We were extremely lucky in spotting a sea eagle on route. There was not much chit chat on board as everyone was taking in the scenery. It was as if we were entering the mangrove scene in Life of Pi. The water was glass and almost mirrored the sky surrounded by lush green mangroves on either side. As much as it was a beautiful experience we all got to understand first hand that rowing on a piroque isn’t the easiest mode of transport. It’s one of those moments where you appreciate Ole Evinrude for inventing the outboard motor.
After lunch, we could go for a snorkel, but it was rather clear that the rowing made people ‘slightly’ fatigued and everywhere you looked people just found a spot to nestle themselves into. We got the opportunity to teach in the village once more and enjoy a soccer match afterwards with the locals. A big part of the Island Outreach Program is to collect old batteries from all the places we visit as batteries that get left without proper disposal can contaminate litres of ocean water. So after the match we went around from hut to hut in search of batteries.
At 7pm, everyone was in bed.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 9:
We got to go past Nosy Iranja for one last snorkel on route to Russian Bay for our last night. The trip back to Russian Bay was rather long but everyone was happy to spend a few hours on the Spirit of Malala, a place that has become home for the past 9 days.
Island Outreach Boat Trip
Day 10:
Everyone woke up slightly sad knowing that it is the last day on our magical trip. At least there was one stop planned at Tanikely before we headed back to camp. And oh, my Tanikely truly had amazing snorkel, definitely one of the best as it is situated in a marine reserve.
